Yini?I-Azelaic Acid?
I-Azelaic Acid iyi-dicarboxylic acid eyenzeka ngokwemvelo esetshenziswa kakhulu ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba kanye nokwelapha izimo zesikhumba ezahlukahlukene. Ine-antibacterial, anti-inflammatory kanye ne-keratin regulating properties futhi ivame ukusetshenziselwa ukwelapha izinkinga zesikhumba ezifana nezinduna, i-rosacea kanye ne-hyperpigmentation.
Izakhiwo Zomzimba Nezamakhemikhali ze-Azelaic Acid
1. Isakhiwo Samakhemikhali Nezakhiwo
Isakhiwo Samakhemikhali
Igama Lekhemikhali: I-Azelaic Acid
I-Chemical Formula: C9H16O4
Isisindo samangqamuzana: 188.22 g/mol
Isakhiwo: I-Azelaic acid iyi-dicarboxylic acid egcwele iketango eliqondile.
2.Izakhiwo Zomzimba
Ukubukeka: I-Azelaic acid ngokuvamile ibonakala njenge-powder emhlophe ecwebezelayo.
Ukunyibilika: Incibilika kancane emanzini kodwa incibilika kakhulu kuzincibilikisi zemvelo njenge-ethanol ne-propylene glycol.
Indawo Encibilika: Cishe ku-106-108°C (223-226°F).
3. Indlela Yokwenza
I-Antibacterial: I-Azelaic acid ivimbela ukukhula kwamabhaktheriya, ikakhulukazi i-Propionibacterium acnes, enomthelela oyinhloko we-acne.
I-Anti-Inflammatory: Yehlisa ukuvuvukala ngokuvimbela ukukhiqizwa kwama-cytokines abangela ukuvuvukala.
I-Keratinization Regulation: I-Azelaic acid isiza ukwenza kube lula ukuchithwa kwamaseli esikhumba afile, ukuvimbela ama-pores avaliwe kanye nokwakheka kwama-comedones.
I-Tyrosinase Inhibition: Ivimbela i-enzyme tyrosinase, ehilelekile ekukhiqizeni i-melanin, ngaleyo ndlela isiza ukunciphisa i-hyperpigmentation ne-melasma.
Yiziphi Izinzuzo ZazoI-Azelaic Acid?
I-Azelaic Acid iyi-dicarboxylic acid eguquguqukayo esetshenziswa kabanzi ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba nokwelashwa kwezinkinga ezahlukahlukene zesikhumba. Nazi izinzuzo eziyinhloko ze-azelaic acid:
1. Yelapha Izinduna
- Umphumela we-antibacterial: I-Azelaic acid ingavimbela ngokuphumelelayo ukukhula kwe-Propionibacterium acnes kanye ne-Staphylococcus aureus, okuyibhaktheriya eyinhloko ye-acne.
- Umphumela wokulwa nokuvuvukala: Unganciphisa impendulo yokuvuvukala kwesikhumba futhi ukhulule ububomvu, ukuvuvukala nobuhlungu.
- I-Keratin Regulating: I-Azelaic acid isiza ukwenza ngokwejwayelekile ukuchithwa kwamaseli esikhumba afile, ivimbele izimbotshana ezivalekile kanye nokwakheka kwezinduna.
2. Ukwelashwa kwe-Rosacea
- Yehlisa Ububomvu: I-Azelaic acid inciphisa ngempumelelo ububomvu nokuvuvukala okuhlobene ne-rosacea.
- Umphumela Wamagciwane: Uvimbela ukukhula kwamagciwane ahlobene ne-rosacea futhi unciphisa ingozi yokutheleleka kwesikhumba.
3. Thuthukisa umbala
- Umphumela omhlophe: I-azelaic acid isiza ukunciphisa umbala kanye ne-chloasma ngokuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase nokunciphisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin.
- Ithoni Yesikhumba Imbala: Ukusebenzisa njalo kubangela isikhumba esilinganayo, kunciphisa amabala amnyama kanye nokushintsha umbala ngokungalingani.
4. Umphumela we-Antioxidant
- I-Neutralizing Free Radicals: I-Azelaic acid inezakhiwo ze-antioxidant ezinciphisa ama-radicals mahhala futhi zinciphise ukulimala kwengcindezi ye-oxidative esikhumbeni.
- I-Anti-Aging: Ngokunciphisa ukulimala kwama-radical mahhala, i-azelaic acid isiza ukuguga kwesikhumba kancane futhi inciphise ukubukeka kwemigqa emihle nemibimbi.
5. Ukwelashwa Kwe-Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation (PIH)
- Yehlisa I-Pigmentation: I-Azelaic acid iphatha ngempumelelo i-post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, evame ukwenzeka ngemva kwenduna noma ezinye izimo zesikhumba ezivuthayo.
- Ukukhuthaza ukulungiswa kwesikhumba: Kukhuthaza ukuvuselelwa nokulungiswa kwamaseli esikhumba futhi kusheshise ukufiphala kombala.
6. Ifanele isikhumba esibucayi
- Imnene futhi ayicasuli: I-azelaic acid ivame ukubekezelelwa kahle futhi ifanele izinhlobo zesikhumba ezibucayi.
- I-Noncomedogenic: Ayivali ama-pores futhi ifanele isikhumba esine-acne.
7. Yelapha ezinye izifo zesikhumba
- I-Keratosis Pilaris: I-Azelaic acid ingasiza ekwehliseni amaholoholo, isikhumba esiphakanyisiwe esihambisana ne-Keratosis Pilaris.
- Ezinye izifo zesikhumba ezivuthayo: Iphinde ibe nemiphumela ethile yokwelapha kwezinye izifo zesikhumba ezivuvukalayo njenge-eczema ne-psoriasis.
Yiziphi Izicelo ZeI-Azelaic Acid?
1. Ukwelapha Izinduna: Amalungiselelo ngezihloko
- Ama-acne Creams nama-Gels: I-Azelaic acid ivame ukusetshenziswa ekulungiseleleni ama-topical ukwelapha izinduna ezithambile kuya kweziphakathi. Kuyasiza ukunciphisa inani lezilonda ze-acne futhi kuvimbele ukwakheka kwezintsha.
- Ukwelapha Okuxubile: Okuvame ukusetshenziswa kanye nezinye zokwelapha izinduna ezifana ne-benzoyl peroxide noma i-retinoic acid ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukusebenza kahle.
2. Ukwelashwa kwe-Rosacea: Amalungiselelo okulwa nokuvuvukala
- I-Rosacea Creams and Gels: I-Azelaic acid inciphisa ngempumelelo ububomvu nokuvuvukala okuhambisana ne-rosacea futhi ivame ukusetshenziswa emalungiselelweni ezihloko eziqondiswe ngqo ku-rosacea.
- Ukuphathwa Kwesikhathi Eside: Ifanele ukuphathwa kwesikhathi eside kwe-rosacea, ukusiza ukugcina isimo esizinzile sesikhumba.
3. Thuthukisa umbala: Imikhiqizo emhlophe
- Ama-Brightening Creams namaSerums: I-Azelaic acid isiza ukunciphisa i-pigmentation ne-melasma ngokuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase nokunciphisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin.
- Ithoni Yesikhumba Imbala: Ukusebenzisa njalo kubangela isikhumba esilinganayo, kunciphisa amabala amnyama kanye nokushintsha umbala ngokungalingani.
4. I-Antioxidant ne-anti-aging: Umkhiqizo wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba one-Antioxidants
- Ama-Anti-Aging Creams namaSerums: Izakhiwo ze-antioxidant ze-azelaic acid ziyenza ibe isithako esibalulekile emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba elwa nokuguga, esiza ekunciphiseni ukulimala kwama-radical mahhala esikhumbeni futhi kubambezele ukuguga kwesikhumba.
- Ukunakekelwa Kwesikhumba Kwansuku zonke: Kufanelekile ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba nsuku zonke, ukuhlinzeka ngokuvikelwa kwe-antioxidant nokugcina isikhumba sinempilo.
5. Ukwelashwa Kwe-Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation (PIH): Imikhiqizo Yokulungisa Ibala
- Ukulungisa Ama-Cream namaSerum: I-Azelaic acid iyasebenza ekwelapheni i-hyperpigmentation yangemuva kokuvuvukala futhi ivame ukusetshenziswa ekulungiseni okhilimu namaserum ukusiza ukusheshisa ukulahleka kwe-hyperpigmentation.
- Ukulungiswa Kwesikhumba: Khuthaza ukuvuselelwa nokulungiswa kwamaseli esikhumba futhi usheshise ukufiphala kombala.
6. Yelapha ezinye izifo zesikhumba
I-Keratosis pilaris
- Imikhiqizo ye-keratin conditioning: I-Azelaic acid ingasiza ekunciphiseni isikhumba esimangelengele, esiphakanyisiwe esihambisana ne-keratosis pilaris futhi ivamise ukusetshenziswa emikhiqizweni yokulungisa i-keratin.
- Ukushelela kwesikhumba: Kuthuthukisa ukushelela nokuthamba kwesikhumba, kuthuthukise ukuthungwa kwesikhumba.
Ezinye izifo zesikhumba ezivuthayo
- I-Eczema ne-Psoriasis: I-Azelaic acid nayo inemiphumela ethile yokwelapha kwezinye izifo zesikhumba ezivuvukalayo njenge-eczema ne-psoriasis, futhi ivame ukusetshenziswa emalungiselelweni ahlobene nezihloko.
7. Ukunakekelwa Kwesikhumba: Imikhiqizo Ye-Anti-Inflammatory kanye Ne-Antibacterial
- Imikhiqizo Yokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba: Izakhiwo ze-Azelaic acid zokulwa nokuvuvukala kanye ne-antibacterial ziyenza ifanelekele ukusetshenziswa emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ukuze isize ukunciphisa ukuvuvukala kwesikhumba kanye nokutheleleka.
- Impilo Yesikhumba: Ikhuthaza impilo yekhanda lekhanda futhi inciphisa inkwethu nokuluma.
Imibuzo Ehlobene Ongaba Nentshisekelo Kuyo:
Ingabei-azelaic acidube nemiphumela engemihle?
I-Azelaic acid ingaba nemiphumela emibi, nakuba ngokuvamile ibekezelelwa kahle abantu abaningi. Imiphumela emibi ivamise ukuba mnene futhi ivame ukuncipha ngokuqhubeka nokusetshenziswa. Nansi eminye imiphumela engemihle engaba khona kanye nokucatshangelwa:
1. Common Side Effects
Ukucasuka Kwesikhumba
- Izimpawu: Ukucasuka okuncane, ububomvu, ukulunywa, noma ukuzwa ukushisa endaweni yokufakwa isicelo.
- Ukuphatha: Lezi zimpawu zivame ukudamba njengoba isikhumba sakho sijwayela ukwelashwa. Uma ukucasuka kuqhubeka, kungase kudingeke wehlise imvamisa yokufakwa kwesicelo noma uxhumane nomhlinzeki wezempilo.
Ukomisa nokucwecwa
- Izimpawu: Ukoma, ukushwaqa noma ukuxebuka kwesikhumba.
- Ukuphatha: Sebenzisa okokuthambisa ukuze wehlise ukoma futhi ugcine isikhumba simanzi.
2. I-Less Common Side Effects
Ukusabela kwe-Hypersensitivity
- Izimpawu: Ukulunywa kakhulu, ukuqubuka, ukuvuvukala, noma isifuba.
- Ukuphatha: Yeka ukusebenzisa ngokushesha futhi uxhumane nomhlinzeki wezempilo uma uhlangabezana nanoma yiziphi izimpawu zokungezwani komzimba.
Ukwandisa Ukuzwela Ilanga
- Izimpawu: Ukwanda kokuzwela ukukhanya kwelanga, okuholela ekushisweni yilanga noma ekulimaleni kwelanga.
- Ukuphatha: Sebenzisa i-sunscreen ene-spectrum ebanzi nsuku zonke futhi ugweme ukuchayeka elangeni isikhathi eside.
3. Rare Side Effects
Ukusabela Okubi Kwesikhumba
- Izimpawu: Ububomvu obukhulu, amabhamuza, noma ukuxebuka kakhulu.
- Ukuphatha: Yeka ukusebenzisa futhi ufune izeluleko zezokwelapha uma uhlangabezana nanoma yikuphi ukusabela okunzima kwesikhumba.
4. Izinyathelo Zokuqapha Nokucatshangelwa
I-Patch Test
- Isincomo: Ngaphambi kokusebenzisa i-azelaic acid, yenza ukuhlolwa kwe-patch endaweni encane yesikhumba ukuze uhlole noma yikuphi ukusabela okubi.
Isingeniso Kancane Kancane
- Isincomo: Uma umusha ku-azelaic acid, qala ngokugxila okuphansi futhi kancane kancane wandise imvamisa yokufakwa kwesicelo ukuze uvumele isikhumba sakho ukuthi silungise.
Ukubonisana
- Okutuswayo: Xhumana nodokotela wesikhumba noma umhlinzeki wezempilo ngaphambi kokuqala i-azelaic acid, ikakhulukazi uma unesikhumba esizwelayo noma usebenzisa ezinye izithako ezisebenzayo zokunakekela isikhumba.
5. Abantu Abakhethekile
Ukukhulelwa Nokuncelisa Ibele
- Ukuphepha: I-azelaic acid ngokuvamile ibhekwa njengephephile ukusetshenziswa ngesikhathi sokukhulelwa nokuncelisa, kodwa ngaso sonke isikhathi kungcono kakhulu ukubonana nomhlinzeki wezempilo ngaphambi kokuqala noma yikuphi ukwelashwa okusha.
Isikhumba Esibucayi
- Ukucatshangelwa: Abantu abanesikhumba esibucayi kufanele basebenzise i-azelaic acid ngokuqapha futhi bangazuza ekwakhiweni okuklanyelwe isikhumba esibucayi.
Kuthatha isikhathi esingakanani ukubona imiphumela yei-azelaic acid?
Isikhathi esithathayo ukubona imiphumela evela ku-azelaic acid ingahluka, kodwa ukuthuthukiswa kokuqala kuvame ukubonakala phakathi kwamaviki angu-2 kuya kwangu-4 ngenxa yezinduna, amaviki angu-4 kuya kwangu-6 e-rosacea, namaviki angu-4 kuya kwangu-8 e-hyperpigmentation kanye ne-melasma. Imiphumela ebaluleke kakhulu ngokuvamile ivela ngemva kwamaviki angu-8 kuya kwangu-12 okusetshenziswa okufanayo. Izinto ezinjengokugcwala kwe-azelaic acid, imvamisa yokusetshenziswa, izici zesikhumba ngasinye, nokuqina kwesimo esiphathwayo kungaba nomthelela ekusebenzeni kanye nesivinini semiphumela. Ukusetshenziswa okuvamile nokungaguquguquki, kanye nemikhuba yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ehambisanayo, kungasiza ekufinyeleleni imiphumela engcono kakhulu.
Izici Ezithonya Imiphumela
Ukugxila kwe-Azelaic Acid
Ukugxila Okuphakeme: Imikhiqizo enokugxila okuphezulu kwe-azelaic acid (isb., 15% kuya ku-20%) ingase ikhiqize imiphumela esheshayo nebonakala kakhudlwana.
Ukugxila Okuphansi: Imikhiqizo enezingqimba eziphansi ingase ithathe isikhathi eside ukubonisa imiphumela ebonakalayo.
Imvamisa Yokufaka Isicelo
Ukusetshenziswa Ngokungaguquki: Ukusebenzisa i-azelaic acid njengoba kuyalelwe, ngokuvamile kanye noma kabili ngosuku, kungathuthukisa ukusebenza kahle futhi kusheshise imiphumela.
Ukusetshenziswa Okungahambisani: Ukusetshenziswa okungajwayelekile kungase kubambezele imiphumela ebonakalayo futhi kunciphise ukusebenza kahle konke.
I-Individual Skin Characters
Uhlobo Lwesikhumba: Uhlobo lwesikhumba ngasinye nesimo singathonya ukuthi imiphumela ibonakala ngokushesha kangakanani. Isibonelo, abantu abanesikhumba esikhanyayo bangabona imiphumela ngokushesha uma kuqhathaniswa nalabo abanesikhumba esimnyama.
Ubunzima Besimo: Ubunzima besimo sesikhumba eselashwayo bungathinta nesikhathi esisithathayo ukubona imiphumela. Izimo ezithambile zingaphendula ngokushesha kunezimo ezinzima kakhulu.
Ungayisebenzisa nini i-azelaic acid, ekuseni noma ebusuku?
I-Azelaic acid ingasetshenziswa kokubili ekuseni nasebusuku, kuya ngenqubo yakho yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kanye nezidingo ezithile. Uma isetshenziswa ekuseni, landela njalo nge-sunscreen ukuvikela isikhumba sakho emonakalweni we-UV. Ukuyisebenzisa ebusuku kungathuthukisa ukulungiswa kwesikhumba futhi kunciphise ukusebenzisana nezinye izithako ezisebenzayo. Ukuze uthole izinzuzo eziphezulu, abanye abantu bakhetha ukusebenzisa i-azelaic acid ekuseni nasebusuku, kodwa kubalulekile ukuqapha impendulo yesikhumba sakho futhi ulungise ngokufanele. Njalo sebenzisa i-azelaic acid ngemva kokuhlanza nangaphambi kokuthambisa, futhi ucabange ukuthi ingena kanjani ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba jikelele ukuze uthole imiphumela engcono kakhulu.
Okungaxutshwa nakhoi-azelaic acid?
I-Azelaic acid iyisithako esisebenza ngezindlela eziningi futhi esivame ukubekezelelwa kahle, kodwa kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi isebenzisana kanjani nezinye izithako ezisebenzayo ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekela isikhumba. Ukuxuba izithako ezithile kungaholela ekucasukeni, ekunciphiseni ukusebenza kahle, noma eminye imiphumela engadingeki. Nansi eminye imihlahlandlela yokuthi yini ongafanele uyixube ne-azelaic acid:
1. Ama-Exfoliants Aqinile
I-Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Izibonelo: I-Glycolic acid, i-lactic acid, i-mandelic acid.
- Isizathu: Ukuhlanganisa i-azelaic acid nama-AHA aqinile kungandisa ingozi yokucasuka, ububomvu, nokuxebuka. Zombili zingama-exfoliants, futhi ukuzisebenzisa ndawonye kungaba nzima kakhulu esikhumbeni.
I-Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
- Izibonelo: Salicylic acid.
- Isizathu: Ngokufana nama-AHA, ama-BHA nawo angama-exfoliants. Ukuzisebenzisa ngokuhambisana ne-azelaic acid kungaholela ekukhipheni ngokweqile kanye nokuzwela kwesikhumba.
2. Ama-Retinoids
- Izibonelo: Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin, Adapalene.
- Isizathu: Ama-retinoids ayizithako ezinamandla ezingabangela ukoma, ukuxebuka, nokucasuka, ikakhulukazi lapho zethulwa okokuqala. Ukuzihlanganisa ne-azelaic acid kungabhebhethekisa le miphumela emibi.
3. I-Benzoyl Peroxide
Isizathu
- Ukucasuka: I-Benzoyl peroxide iyisithako esinamandla sokulwa nezinduna ezingabangela ukoma nokucasuka. Ukuyisebenzisa kanye ne-azelaic acid kungandisa ingozi yokucasuka kwesikhumba.
- Ukusebenza Okuncishisiwe: I-Benzoyl peroxide ingase futhi ifake ezinye izithako ezisebenzayo, okungenzeka yehlise ukusebenza kwazo.
4. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Isizathu
- Amazinga e-pH: I-Vitamin C (i-ascorbic acid) idinga i-pH ephansi ukuze isebenze, kuyilapho i-azelaic acid isebenza kangcono nge-pH ephakeme kancane. Ukuzisebenzisa ndawonye kungaphazamisa ukusebenza kahle kwazo zombili izithako.
- Ukucasuka: Ukuhlanganisa lezi zithako ezimbili ezinamandla kungandisa ingozi yokucasuka, ikakhulukazi esikhumbeni esibucayi.
5. Niacinamide
Isizathu
- Ukusebenzisana Okungenzeka: Nakuba i-niacinamide ngokuvamile ibekezelelwa kahle futhi ingasetshenziswa nezithako eziningi ezisebenzayo, abanye abantu bangase bacasuke lapho beyihlanganisa ne-azelaic acid. Lokhu akuwona umthetho ojwayelekile, kodwa yinto okufanele uyiqaphele.
6. Eminye Imisebenzi Enamandla
Izibonelo
- IHydroquinone, i-Kojic Acid, nezinye izinto ezikhanyisa isikhumba.
- Isizathu: Ukuhlanganisa imisebenzi eminingi enamandla okuhloswe ngayo ukwelapha i-hyperpigmentation kungandisa ingozi yokucasuka futhi kungase kungakhulisi ngempela ukusebenza kahle.
Indlela YokuhlanganisaI-Azelaic AcidNgokuphephile:
Enye i-Use
- Isu: Uma ufuna ukusebenzisa i-azelaic acid kanye nezinye izinto ezinamandla, cabanga ukushintshanisa ukusetshenziswa kwazo. Isibonelo, sebenzisa i-azelaic acid ekuseni kanye ne-retinoids noma i-AHAs/BHAs ebusuku.
I-Patch Test
- Okunconyiwe: Njalo yenza ukuhlolwa kwesichibi lapho wethula isithako esisha esisebenzayo enkambweni yakho ukuze uhlole noma yikuphi ukusabela okungekuhle.
Qala Kancane Kancane
- Isu: Yethula i-azelaic acid kancane kancane, uqale ngokugxila okuphansi futhi ukhuphule imvamisa njengoba isikhumba sakho sakha ukubekezelelana.
Xhumana Nodokotela Wesikhumba
- Isincomo: Uma ungaqiniseki ngokuthi ungayifaka kanjani i-azelaic acid esimisweni sakho, thintana nodokotela wesikhumba ukuze uthole iseluleko esiqondene nawe.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Sep-21-2024