• NikiAcide ya Mandelic?
Acide ya Mandelic ni aside hydroxy ya alpha (AHA) ikomoka kuri almonde isharira. Ikoreshwa cyane mubicuruzwa byuruhu kugirango ibe exfoliating, antibacterial, na anti-gusaza.
• Ibintu bifatika na chimique ya Acide ya Mandelic
1. Imiterere yimiti
Izina ryimiti: Acide ya Mandelic
Inzira ya molekulari: C8H8O3
Uburemere bwa molekuline: 152.15 g / mol
Imiterere: Acide ya Mandelic ifite impeta ya benzene hamwe na hydroxyl groupe (-OH) hamwe na carboxyl group (-COOH) ifatanye na atome imwe ya karubone. Izina ryayo rya IUPAC ni 2-hydroxy-2-acide fenylacetike.
2. Ibintu bifatika
Kugaragara: Ifu yera ya kristaline
Impumuro: Impumuro nziza cyangwa gato biranga umunuko
Ingingo yo gushonga: Hafi ya 119-121 ° C (246-250 ° F)
Ingingo yo guteka: Yangirika mbere yo guteka
Gukemura:
Amazi: Kubora mumazi
Inzoga: Gukemura muri alcool
Ether: Gukemura buhoro muri ether
Ubucucike: Hafi ya 1,30 g / cm³
3.Imiterere yimiti
Acide (pKa): pKa ya aside ya mandelike igera kuri 3.41, byerekana ko ari aside idakomeye.
Guhagarara: Acide ya Mandelic irahagaze neza mubihe bisanzwe ariko irashobora kwangirika mugihe ihuye nubushyuhe bwinshi cyangwa ibintu bikomeye bya okiside.
Ibikorwa:
Oxidation: Irashobora kuba okiside kuri benzaldehyde na aside aside.
Kugabanuka: Birashobora kugabanuka kuri alcool ya mandelic.
4. Ibiranga ibintu
UV-Vis Absorption: Acide ya Mandelic ntabwo ifite uburyo bukomeye bwa UV-Vis bitewe no kubura imiyoboro ibiri ihuriweho.
Infrared (IR) Spectroscopy: Ibiranga imiterere yo kwinjiza harimo:
OH Kurambura: Hafi ya 3200-3600 cm⁻¹
C = O Kurambura: Hafi ya cm 1700
Kurambura CO: Hafi ya cm 1100-1300
NMR Spectroscopy:
¹H NMR: Yerekana ibimenyetso bihuye na aromatic proton hamwe na hydroxyl na carboxyl.
¹³C NMR: Yerekana ibimenyetso bihuye na atome ya karubone mu mpeta ya benzene, karubone ya karubone, na karubone yitwa hydroxyl.
5. Ibyiza byubushyuhe
Ingingo yo gushonga: Nkuko byavuzwe, aside ya mandelike ishonga hafi 119-121 ° C.
Kubora: Acide ya Mandelic irabora mbere yo guteka, byerekana ko igomba kwitabwaho mugihe cy'ubushyuhe bwo hejuru.
• Ni izihe nyunguAcide ya Mandelic?
1. Kwitonda witonze
Kuraho ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye: Acide ya Mandelic ifasha kuzimya uruhu rworoheje mugusenya isano iri hagati yingirangingo zuruhu zapfuye, guteza imbere kuyikuraho no kwerekana uruhu rushya, rworoshye munsi.
Bikwiranye nuruhu rworoshye: Bitewe nubunini bwa molekuline nini ugereranije nizindi AHA nka acide glycolike, aside mandelic yinjira muruhu gahoro gahoro, bigatuma idatera uburakari kandi ikwiriye ubwoko bwuruhu rworoshye.
2. Kurwanya Gusaza
Kugabanya imirongo myiza n'iminkanyari: Gukoresha buri gihe aside ya mandelic birashobora gufasha kugabanya isura y'imirongo myiza n'iminkanyari biteza imbere umusaruro wa kolagen no kunoza uruhu.
. Kunoza uruhu rworoshye: Acide ya Mandelic ifasha kunoza imiterere yuruhu, bigatuma uruhu rugaragara rukomeye kandi rukiri muto.
3. Kuvura Acne
Properties Antibacterial Properties: Acide ya Mandelic ifite antibacterial ifasha kugabanya bagiteri zitera acne kuruhu, bigatuma igira akamaro mukuvura no gukumira acne.
Kugabanya gucana: Ifasha kugabanya gucana no gutukura bijyana na acne, bigatera uruhu rusobanutse.
◊ Unclogs Pores: Acide ya Mandelic ifasha gukuramo imyenge ikuraho ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye hamwe namavuta arenze urugero, bikagabanya kugaragara kwumukara nu mutwe.
4. Hyperpigmentation hamwe no Kumurika uruhu
Kugabanya Hyperpigmentation: Acide ya Mandelic irashobora gufasha kugabanya hyperpigmentation, ibibara byijimye, na melasma muguhagarika umusaruro wa melanin, pigment ishinzwe ibara ryuruhu.
◊ Umugoroba w'uruhu rwa nimugoroba: Gukoresha buri gihe bishobora kuvamo uruhu rwinshi ndetse no kugaragara neza.
5. Itezimbere uruhu
Skin Uruhu rworoshye: Mugutezimbere gukuraho ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye no gushishikariza guhinduranya ingirabuzimafatizo, aside mandelic ifasha koroshya uruhu rukabije.
Gutunganya imyenge: Acide ya Mandelic irashobora gufasha kugabanya kugaragara kwimyanya minini, bigatuma uruhu rusa neza kandi rusukuye.
6. Amazi
Ret Kugumana Ubushuhe: Acide ya Mandelic ifasha kuzamura ubushobozi bwuruhu rwo kugumana ubushuhe, biganisha kumazi meza no kuvoma, kugaragara neza.
7. Gusana ibyangiritse ku zuba
Kugabanya kwangirika kwizuba: Acide ya Mandelic irashobora gufasha gusana uruhu rwangijwe nizuba mugutezimbere ingirabuzimafatizo no kugabanya isura yizuba nubundi buryo bwa hyperpigmentation iterwa no guhura na UV.
Ni ubuhe buryo bukoreshwaAcide ya Mandelic?
1. Ibicuruzwa byita ku ruhu
◊Isuku
Isuku yo mu maso: Acide ya Mandelic ikoreshwa mugusukura mumaso kugirango itange exfolisiyonike yoroheje kandi isukure byimbitse, ifasha gukuramo ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye, amavuta arenze, hamwe n’umwanda.
Toners
Exfoliating Toners: Acide ya Mandelic ishyirwa muri toners kugirango ifashe kuringaniza pH y'uruhu, gutanga exfolisiyonike yoroheje, no gutegura uruhu kugirango intambwe ikurikiraho.
◊Serumu
Ubuvuzi bugamije: Serumu ya aside ya Mandelic irazwi cyane mu kuvura indwara ya acne, hyperpigmentation, n'ibimenyetso byo gusaza. Izi serumu zitanga urugero rwinshi rwa acide ya mandelike kuruhu kugirango rukore neza.
◊Amashanyarazi
Hydrated cream: Acide ya Mandelic rimwe na rimwe ishyirwa mubushuhe kugirango itange exfolisiyonike mugihe uhindura uruhu, utezimbere imiterere nijwi.
◊Ibishishwa
Ibishishwa bya chimique: Amababi ya acide ya mandelic yumwuga akoreshwa muguhindura cyane hamwe no kuvugurura uruhu. Ibishishwa bifasha kunoza imiterere yuruhu, kugabanya hyperpigmentation, no kuvura acne.
2. Ubuvuzi bwa Dermatologiya
◊Kuvura Acne
Ibisubizo by'ibanze: Acide ya Mandelic ikoreshwa mubisubizo byibanze no kuvura acne kubera imiterere ya antibacterial hamwe nubushobozi bwo kugabanya gucana no kwangiza imyenge.
◊Hyperpigmentation
Imirasire: Acide ya Mandelic ikoreshwa mubuvuzi bwa hyperpigmentation, melasma, hamwe nibibara byijimye. Ifasha guhagarika umusaruro wa melanin no guteza imbere uruhu rwinshi.
◊Kurwanya gusaza
Umuti urwanya gusaza: Acide ya Mandelic ishyirwa mubikorwa byo kurwanya gusaza kugirango igabanye isura nziza n'iminkanyari, kunoza uruhu rworoshye, no guteza imbere umusaruro wa kolagen.
3. Uburyo bwo kwisiga
◊Ibishishwa bya shimi
Peels Professional: Dermatologiste ninzobere mu kwita ku ruhu bakoresha aside ya mandelike mu gishishwa cy’imiti kugirango batange exfolisiyonike, batezimbere uruhu, kandi bavure ibibazo bitandukanye byuruhu nka acne, hyperpigmentation, nibimenyetso byo gusaza.
◊Microneedling
Kongera Absorption: Acide ya Mandelic irashobora gukoreshwa ifatanije nuburyo bwa microneedling kugirango hongerwe kwinjiza aside no kunoza imikorere yayo mukuvura ibibazo byuruhu.
4. Ubuvuzi
◊Imiti igabanya ubukana
Antibiyotike yibanze: Indwara ya antibacterial aside ya Mandelic ituma igira akamaro mu kuvura indwara zanduza uruhu rwa bagiteri.
◊Gukiza ibikomere
Ibikoresho byo gukiza: Acide ya Mandelic rimwe na rimwe ikoreshwa muburyo bugamije guteza imbere gukira ibikomere no kugabanya ibyago byo kwandura.
5. Ibicuruzwa byita kumisatsi
◊Kuvura umutwe
Kuvura igihanga:Acide ya Mandelicikoreshwa mubuvuzi bwumutwe kugirango izimye ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye, kugabanya dandruff, no guteza imbere ubuzima bwiza bwumutwe.
6. Ibicuruzwa byo mu kanwa
◊Akanwa
Antibacterial Mouthwashes: Indwara ya antibacterial acide ya Mandelic ituma ishobora kuba ingirakamaro mu koza umunwa yagenewe kugabanya bagiteri zo mu kanwa no kunoza isuku yo mu kanwa.
Ibibazo bifitanye isano Urashobora gushimishwa:
Ni izihe ngaruka mbi zaaside ya mandelike?
Nubwo aside ya mandelike isanzwe ifite umutekano kandi yihanganirwa neza, irashobora gutera ingaruka nko kurakara kuruhu, gukama, kongera izuba ryinshi, reaction ya allergique, na hyperpigmentation. Kugira ngo ugabanye izo ngaruka, kora ikizamini cya patch, utangire hamwe nubushyuhe buke, koresha amazi meza, koresha izuba ryinshi buri munsi, kandi wirinde kurenza urugero. Niba uhuye ningaruka zikomeye cyangwa zikomeye, baza inama ya dermatologue kugirango akugire inama yihariye.
♦ Uburyo bwo gukoresha Acide ya Mandelic
Acide ya Mandelic ni aside itandukanye ya alpha hydroxy aside (AHA) ishobora kwinjizwa mubikorwa byawe byo kwita ku ruhu kugirango ikemure ibibazo bitandukanye byuruhu nka acne, hyperpigmentation, nibimenyetso byo gusaza. Dore inzira yuzuye yuburyo bwo gukoresha aside ya mandelike neza kandi neza:
1. Guhitamo ibicuruzwa byiza
Ubwoko bwibicuruzwa
Isuku: Isuku ya aside ya Mandelic itanga exfolisiyonike yoroheje no kweza cyane. Birakwiriye gukoreshwa buri munsi.
Toners: Exfoliating toners hamwe na aside ya mandelic ifasha kuringaniza pH y'uruhu no gutanga exfolisiyonike. Birashobora gukoreshwa buri munsi cyangwa inshuro nke mucyumweru, bitewe nuruhu rwawe rwihanganira.
Serumu: Serumu ya Mandelic itanga ubuvuzi bwibanze kubibazo byuruhu byihariye. Mubisanzwe bikoreshwa rimwe cyangwa kabiri kumunsi.
Moisturizers: Amashanyarazi amwe arimo aside ya mandelike kugirango itange hydrated na exfolisiyonike.
Igishishwa: Amababi ya acide ya mandelic yabigize umwuga arakomeye kandi agomba gukoreshwa ayobowe numu dermatologue cyangwa inzobere mu kuvura uruhu.
2. Kwinjiza Acide ya Mandelic muri gahunda yawe
Intambwe ku yindi
◊Isuku
Koresha Isuku Yoroheje: Tangira ukoresheje isuku yoroheje, idashushe kugirango ukureho umwanda, amavuta, na maquillage.
Ibyifuzo: Niba ukoresha aaside ya mandelikekweza, iyi ishobora kuba intambwe yawe yambere. Koresha isuku kugirango uruhu rutose, ukore massage witonze, kandi woge neza.
◊Toning
Koresha Toner: Niba ukoresha tonel ya acide ya mandelike, shyira nyuma yo kweza. Shira ipamba hamwe na toner hanyuma uyihanagure mumaso yawe, wirinde ahantu h'amaso. Emera gushiramo byuzuye mbere yo kwimukira ku ntambwe ikurikira.
◊Porogaramu ya Serumu
Koresha Serumu: Niba ukoresha serumu ya mandelic, koresha ibitonyanga bike mumaso no mumajosi. Witonze witonze serumu mu ruhu rwawe, wirinde ahantu h'amaso. Emera gukuramo rwose.
◊Ubushuhe
Koresha Moisturizer: Kurikirana hamwe na hydratif moisturizer kugirango ufunge mubushuhe kandi utuze uruhu. Niba moisurizer yawe irimo aside ya mandelic, izatanga inyungu zinyongera za exfoliation.
◊Kurinda izuba
Koresha izuba ryinshi: Acide ya Mandelic irashobora kongera uruhu rwawe ku zuba. Nibyingenzi gushira mugari izuba ryinshi byibuze byibuze SPF 30 mugitondo, ndetse no muminsi yibicu.
3. Inshuro yo gukoresha
◊Gukoresha Buri munsi
Isuku na Toners: Ibi birashobora gukoreshwa burimunsi, ukurikije kwihanganira uruhu rwawe. Tangira nundi munsi wose kandi wongere buhoro buhoro ukoreshe burimunsi niba uruhu rwawe rushobora kubyitwaramo.
Serumu: Tangira rimwe rimwe buri munsi, byaba byiza nimugoroba. Niba uruhu rwawe rwihanganira neza, urashobora kwiyongera kugeza kabiri kumunsi.
◊Gukoresha Icyumweru
Ibishishwa: Amababi ya acide ya mandelic yumwuga agomba gukoreshwa gake, mubisanzwe rimwe mubyumweru 1-4, bitewe nubunini hamwe no kwihanganira uruhu rwawe. Buri gihe ukurikize ubuyobozi bwinzobere mu kwita ku ruhu.
4. Gupima ibipapuro
Ikizamini cya Patch: Mbere yo kwinjiza aside ya mandelike muri gahunda zawe, kora ikizamini cya patch kugirango urebe ko udafite ingaruka mbi. Koresha agace gato k'ibicuruzwa ahantu h'ubwenge, nko inyuma y ugutwi cyangwa ku kuboko kwawe imbere, hanyuma utegereze amasaha 24-48 kugirango urebe ibimenyetso byerekana uburakari.
5. Guhuza nibindi bikoresho byo kuvura uruhu
◊Ibikoresho bihuye
Acide ya Hyaluronic: Itanga hydration hamwe na babiri hamwe hamweaside ya mandelike.
Niacinamide: Ifasha koroshya uruhu no kugabanya gucana, bigatuma iba inshuti nziza ya aside ya mandelike.
◊Ibikoresho byo Kwirinda
Ibindi Exfoliants: Irinde gukoresha izindi AHAs, BHAs (nka acide salicylic), cyangwa exfoliants kumubiri kumunsi umwe kugirango wirinde kurenza urugero no kurakara.
Retinoide: Gukoresha retinoide na aside ya mandelike hamwe birashobora kongera ibyago byo kurakara. Niba ukoresha byombi, tekereza kumunsi usimburana cyangwa ubaze umuganga wimpu kugirango akugire inama yihariye.
6. Gukurikirana no Guhindura
◊Itegereze Uruhu rwawe
Gukurikirana Ibisubizo: Witondere uburyo uruhu rwawe rwakira aside ya mandelike. Niba uhuye numutuku ukabije, kurakara, cyangwa gukama, gabanya inshuro zo gukoresha cyangwa uhindukire kumurongo wo hasi.
Hindura nkuko bikenewe: Kuvura uruhu ntabwo arimwe-bihuye-byose. Hindura inshuro hamwe nubunini bwa aside ya mandelike ukurikije ibyo uruhu rwawe rukeneye no kwihanganira.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nzeri-24-2024
