● Kuki umubiri wumuntu utanga Melanin?
Imirasire y'izuba niyo mpamvu nyamukuru itera umusaruro wa melanin. Imirasire ya ultraviolet mu zuba ryangiza aside deoxyribonucleic, cyangwa ADN, mu ngirabuzimafatizo. ADN yangiritse irashobora gukurura kwangirika no kwimura amakuru yimiterere, ndetse ikanatera ihinduka ryimiterere ya gene mbi, cyangwa gutakaza genes suppressor genes, bigatuma habaho ibibyimba.
Nyamara, izuba ryinshi ntabwo "riteye ubwoba", kandi ibi byose ni "inguzanyo" kuri melanin. Mubyukuri, mugihe gikomeye, melanin izarekurwa, ikoreshe neza ingufu z'imirasire ya ultraviolet, irinde ADN kwangirika, bityo bigabanye kwangirika kwatewe nimirasire ya ultraviolet kumubiri wumuntu. Nubwo melanin irinda umubiri wumuntu kwangirika kwa ultraviolet, irashobora kandi gutuma uruhu rwacu rwijimye kandi rugatera ibibara. Kubwibyo, guhagarika umusaruro wa melanin nuburyo bwingenzi bwo kwera uruhu mubikorwa byubwiza.
● NikiArbutin?
Arbutin, izwi kandi nka arbutin, ifite imiti ya C12H16O7. Nibintu byakuwe mumababi yikimera cya Ericaceae. Irashobora guhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase mu mubiri kandi ikabuza gukora melanine, bityo bikagabanya pigmentation yuruhu, ikuraho ibibara na feri. Ifite kandi ingaruka za bagiteri na anti-inflammatory kandi ikoreshwa cyane mu kwisiga.
Arbutinirashobora kugabanwa α-ubwoko na β-ubwoko ukurikije imiterere itandukanye. Itandukaniro rinini hagati yibi byombi mumiterere yumubiri ni optique yo guhinduranya: α-arbutin ni dogere 180, mugihe β-arbutine ni -60. Byombi bifite ingaruka zo guhagarika tyrosinase kugirango igere cyera. Byakoreshejwe cyane ni β-Ubwoko, buhendutse. Nyamara, ukurikije ubushakashatsi, wongeyeho α-ubwoko bungana na 1/9 cyokwirundanya kwa β-ubwoko bushobora kubuza umusaruro wa tyrosinase kandi ukagera ku cyera. Ibicuruzwa byinshi byita kuruhu wongeyeho α-arbutine bigira ingaruka zo kwera inshuro icumi kurenza arbutine gakondo.
Ni izihe nyunguArbutin?
Arbutin ikurwa cyane mumababi ya Bearberry. Irashobora kandi kuboneka mu mbuto zimwe na zimwe n'ibindi bimera. Ifite ingaruka zo kumurika uruhu. Irashobora kwinjira vuba mu ruhu itagize ingaruka ku ngirangingo z'uruhu. Ihuza na tirozine, itera umusaruro wa melanine, kandi irashobora guhagarika neza ibikorwa bya tyrosinase no gukora melanine, byihuta kubora no kurandura melanine. Byongeye kandi, arbutine irashobora kurinda uruhu radicals yubusa kandi ifite hydrophilicity nziza. Kubwibyo, akenshi byiyongera kubicuruzwa byera ku isoko, cyane cyane mubihugu bya Aziya.
Arbutinni ibintu bisanzwe bikomoka ku bimera bibisi. Nibintu bitunganya uruhu bihuza "ibimera bibisi, umutekano kandi wizewe" na "decolorisation nziza". Irashobora kwinjira vuba muruhu. Bitagize ingaruka ku gukwirakwiza kwingirabuzimafatizo, birashobora guhagarika neza ibikorwa bya tyrosinase mu ruhu kandi bikabuza gukora melanine. Muguhuza neza na tyrosinase, byihutisha kubora no gusohora kwa melanine, bityo bikagabanya pigmentation yuruhu, bikuraho ibibara na frake, kandi ntigira uburozi, kurakara, gukangurira nizindi ngaruka kuri melanocytes. Ifite kandi ingaruka za bagiteri na anti-inflammatory. Nibintu byizewe kandi byiza byera byera byamamaye muri iki gihe, kandi nubundi buryo bwiza bwo kwera uruhu no gukora ibintu byoroshye mu kinyejana cya 21.
Ni ubuhe buryo bukoreshwa cyaneArbutin?
Irashobora gukoreshwa mu mavuta yo kwisiga yo mu rwego rwo hejuru kandi irashobora gukorwa mu mavuta yo kwita ku ruhu, amavuta ya cream, cream yo mu rwego rwo hejuru, n'ibindi.
Ibikoresho bibisi byo kuvura no gutwika: Arbutin ningingo nyamukuru yubuvuzi bushya bwo gutwika no gutwika, burangwa no kugabanya ububabare bwihuse, ingaruka zikomeye zo kurwanya inflammatory, kurandura vuba umutuku no kubyimba, gukira vuba, kandi nta nkovu.
Ifishi ikoreshwa: gutera cyangwa gusaba.
Ibikoresho bito byo kuvura amara imiti igabanya ubukana: ingaruka nziza za bagiteri na anti-inflammatory, nta ngaruka mbi z'uburozi.
● NEWGREEN Gutanga Alpha / Beta-ArbutinIfu
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-05-2024
